Couture Technique Tutorial – Flat Felled Seam
The Maxi Dress sewing pattern in addition to all Ann Normandy sewing patterns are designed with flat felled seams. Flat felled seams are a two-seam process to encase the raw edges of fabric pieces. Nearly, if not all denim jeans have flat felled inseams for durability.
The Flat felled seam is the perfect detail to take your garment from the ordinary to the extraordinary. It may look complicated, but it really is only two stitched seams. Your iron and your hands are the primary tools to create a crisp flat felled seam.
This is where you starting crafting your garment. Setting each step by pressing with moist heat and then allowing to cool is key to the perfect seam.
Besides protecting the raw edges of the seam, a flat felled seam allows the garment to be worn inside out. These seams are not just a couture technique; they give additional weight to the garment, to drape the body, as well as stability to hold its shape beautifully.
Flat felled seam allowances (FFSA) are typically wider than the standard seam allowance. All FFSA’s in Ann Normandy Patterns are ¾” (1.90 cm).
Here is how to create the perfect flat felled seam:
Make sure hem edges are even, and underarm seams are lined up. Pin if necessary.
1. With right sides together, using a 3/4” (1.90 cm) seam allowance, sew front to back seams together.
2. Turn right side out and press seam open to set the 3/4” (1.90 cm) seam allowance.
3. Press back seam toward the front to set for felling. Let seam cool.
4. Open seam with fingers and trim under seam (front seam) to 1/4” (.64 cm).
5. Fold top seam allowance over and under 1/4” (.64) trimmed seam.
Press securely in place.
Continue to fold over and under ¼” (.64 cm) trimmed seam and press securely in place. Let cool.
6. On the wrong side, edge stitch carefully along the fold. Press finished seam and let cool.
7. Turn garment right side out and press.
Let cool completely and toast to the perfect flat felled seam!